from The Island (Sri Lanka)
December 14, 2011, 7:13 pm
from Ravi Ladduwahetty in Pahiyangala
It was at around 10 am on Unduwap Poya Day that my friend Karu and I set off on his 135 cc Bajaj motor cycle from the Horana town on our way to Pahiyangala. It was to be a 22 kilometre journey, which transpired later. The backdrop had all the embodiments and ingredients of a Poya Day; serene surroundings flanked by luscious plantations of both tea and rubber, amidst the salubrious climes and breathtaking chill as we trudged on slowly but surely to a landmark in Sri Lanka’s chronicles. It was the hamlet of Bellampitiya, then Naragala where we crossed some tributaries of the Kalu Ganga and then, Gowinna, Egal Oya and past the roundabout at the Bulathsinhala town.
We turned left at Bulathsinhala to the Niggaha Road and within seven kilometers from there and 45 minutes from Horana , we were at the foothill of what is now known as the Pahiyangala Rock Cave Temple, which is not only Sri Lanka’s largest natural rock cave but also the oldest human habitat in Asia spanning 37,000 years !!
This natural rock cave is in the village of Yatagampitiya in the Kalutara District. One would also say that this venue would also arouse more curiousity than the other rock caves in Sri Lanka such as Dambulla, Matale Alu Lena, Kaballena which is in Wariyapola and Mulkirigala. The peak of the cave is around 860 feet above Mean Sea Level and one had to originally climb over 496 rock steps to reach the pinnacle. However, there is also a school of thought that this number would be less than half after the 1986 conservations. However, what we also observed was that a majority of the steps were disintegrated and without a railing to hold, maintaining the human equilibrium was a tough option and choice!!
The entrance was filled with crowds as expected on a Poya Day. There were the Buddhist devotees who had observed sil. The mouth of the cave is around 150 feet and 175 feet in height but the entire cave is 468 feet in height and takes the shape of a snake according to officials of the Archaeology Department. The width is three times more than that of the Dambulla rock cave. There are over 3000 people who could remain at the pinnacle without getting wet for the rains.
Some of the most significant aspects of the Pahiyangala rock cave is that it has been the abode for Chinese Buddhist monk Fa Hsein in 5th century AD. Legend and folk tales have it that this rock cave provided him shelter for the night when he was en route to Sri Pada.
Prehistoric human skull,
vestiges of rat
bones and snail shells
Excavations up to 16 feet deep conducted by the Archaeology Department in 1986 under the stewardship of former Director- General Dr Siran Deraniyagala and Assitant Commissioner W.H. Wijepala (later Director General Central Cultural Fund) have revealed most precious data on prehistoric man including five human skulls. There have been some large iron tools, some implements which have been discovered in the excavations and they had been directed to USA’s Cornwall University. Scientists there have also endorsed through radio carbon dating that the skull found at Pahiyangala was 37,000 years old.
There were vestiges of the snail shells and bones of mammals such as rats. Archaeological evidence also suggested that the prehistoric man also was in the habit of eating snails and that they pierced them to make various elements of jewellery. There is also evidence of iron implements which have been used in farming, hunting and also in the production of fire.
One of the Buddhist monks there said that there had been some colouring of the skulls in order to identify their sex. He also said that the historical and archeological evidence of the Sri Lankan civilization was much older than the descendants of prince Vijaya and Kuveni.
From rock cave to Buddhist temple
It is a Buddhist monk by the name of Poronagama Thera who had converted the cave in order that Buddhist monks could habit the venue as a temple. He has used a stone tool which was 6 feet tall for the breaking of rock which were hindering the entrance, by a stone implement which would not be lifted by four strong men of today!! It is also said that the giant reclining Buddhist statue which has been built has also been buried by the boundary of the cave.
Chief Prelates at Pahiyangala
Some of the oldest artifacts which have been found have been the two Uluwahu which had been constructed by Poragama Thera himself. The other Chief Prelates who succeeded him were: Werawatte Sobitha Thera, Wewala Dhammajothi Thera, Udumulle Saranankara Thera, Uduwalakande Jinananda Thera, Jambureliye Pannananda Wewala Dhammarasi, and Kandane Pannasara. The small viharaya which is constructed at the pinnacle is attributed to Wewala Dhammajothi Thera which has been subjected to worship by devotees and the 40 feet reclining Buddha statue is also attributed to this period. Despite there not been any further archaeological significance here, the mere name evokes interest among historians.
The future
Pahiyangala is being pursued for propagation of Buddhist culture. No modern development will take place there. Surroundings will be maintained as a forest reserve. It is also planned to train100 Buddhist monks in the future.
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